Until the First World War, the hat is an indispensable element of the toilet. Her absence signals to the look, the worker who goes out "in hair". In all cities milliners meet the demand of a huge clientele by creating their own models or adapting those of Parisian fashion8.
At the turn of the nineteenth century, the silhouette changed. The big hat appears with the tailor suit around 19009. It balances the brand new bell skirt. The trim is set very high on hats wider and wider. They are held by hat pins, new accessory.
The links between haute couture and hats go back to Worth and his collaboration with Mrs. Virot in the 1890s. "A good milliner was able to interpret the spirit of a collection without sacrificing his own creativity. Although their contribution was not officially recognized, all those who were part of the closed world of Parisian fashion knew which milliners had created the models that accompanied the collection presented by his fashion designer.
The great millinists of this period are Caroline Reboux, Lucienne Rebaté, the sisters Legroux, Madame Blanchot, Lewis, Marie Alphonsine.
1920s
Under the influence of Paul Poiret the dresses become simpler from the 1910s. The silhouette lengthens and flattens. New hairstyles are created for sports activities: automobile, bath, boating. Women cut their hair. A new hat appears, the hat closes beside the capeline and the hat. Among the big names of this time, we find Rose Valois, Suzanne Talbot9.
Coco Chanel started as a milliner before embarking on haute couture. His hats were like his clothes, unusual both in the purity of their line and in the. Unlike Elsa Schiaparelli who "liked to shock and adore the paradoxes of the surrealists. She used hats as an exclamation point, a "craze" that crowned a look and gave room for discussion. The concept of immoderation had entered the history of twentieth-century fashions.
1930s
The hair and the hat will constitute essential elements of the feminine aesthetic, symbolizing perhaps the best this time9. There is a hat for all the events of the day. The trimmed hats are in the spotlight. The trimmings are placed near the face. Hats regain their height at the end of the 1930s. The vertical lines are thus in the spotlight and are further accented by high drapes, hulls, egrets, wings, knots arranged at the top of the cap. With Schiaparelli, the great millinists of this period are Rose Valois, Louise Bourbon, Germaine Page, Rose Descat, Gaby Mono, Agnes and Claude Saint-Cyr.
Second World War
The world of fashion is in crisis during the war. Some haute couture houses are closing. The scarcity of materials affects those who continue their activity. This is the era of alternative materials: fibranne, rayon, wood, straw, cork. "Modeling accommodates these difficulties better than sewing and is very innovative. This upheaval allows the emergence of young talents: Albouy, Gabrielle, Gilbert Orce "8. "It's time for performances: Albouy newsprint hat, Agnès wood chips hat" 11. According to the historian Dominique Veillon: "... the creative exuberance of headgear can be explained as the diffuse manifestation of a revolt against the harshness of the time" 12. Hats also provide concrete solutions to the cold (hood), the difficulty of maintaining his hair (turban and scarf).
Main article: Fashion under the Occupation and Fashion of the 1950s in France.
After war
The end of the war and the gradual disappearance of shortages mark the return of beautiful materials, a desire for refinement and opulence, like the creations of Christian Dior requiring meters of fabric. The little hats alternate with the big ones, depending on the large dresses and the thin suits.
Since the late 1960s, the wearing of the hat has fallen into disuse, although some young people reclaim from this fashion accessory.
Headwear and apparat in Europe
One remembers the extravagant hats of the elegant ones of the century known as lights to those of the nineteenth century, but the kings and princes of Asia and Europe very soon bought hats as complex and more expensive, to the hatters. while at the same time in other parts of the world complex headdresses made of feathers and other ornaments were probably manufactured and worn for a long time. The trade of hatter was in France already codified under Louis IX, as a chapter of the Register of trades14 shows. By way of example, the accounting15, of the year 1351 describes for
Professional Headwear: Hats in the Workplace17
In Western societies, work hats serve to indicate rank and profession.
The uniform dress of authority18
In the nineteenth the agents of the administration are provided with specific clothing19. These clothes were accompanied by hat: black cocked hat for the central administration in use until the middle of the twentieth century, the kepi for the prefectural and the colonial. The large state services are given a kepi (prison services, police) or the cap that has become more widely imposed since the 1980s. The ecclesiastical clothing with a square cap from the seventeenth century, leaves room to the beret when the cassock is replaced in the city by the ordinary costume. The secularization of the public assistance entails the regulation of the costumes of the personnel, whose wearing of the cap, replaced by the veil in 1917 and fallen since in obsolescence.
The protective headgear
The first civilian protective helmets were made of leather or copper (French firefighters) for police and firefighters. They were extended to sports activities (horse, cycling, motorcycle). They are now made of fiberglass, expanded polystyrene.
The hairstyles of St. Catherine
Yvonne de Sike, Head of the Europe Department at the Musée de l'Homme in Paris, comments on this custom20. "Catherine, daughter of notables of Alexandria at the beginning of the fourth century and converted to Christianity, refused any proposal of marriage [...]. Formerly, in the sewing workshops, on St. Catherine's day, girls who had reached the fateful age wore haggard hats. This practice gave rise to festivities and popular balls. It was, of course, an indirect way of bringing ritual into the "circuit" potential wives, those who might otherwise be excluded ".
the twentieth century, the kepi for the prefectural and the colonial. The large state services are given a kepi (prison services, police) or the cap that has become more widely imposed since the 1980s. The ecclesiastical clothing with a square cap from the seventeenth century, leaves room to the beret when the cassock is replaced in the city by the ordinary costume. The secularization of the public assistance entails the regulation of the costumes of the personnel, whose wearing of the cap, replaced by the veil in 1917 and fallen since in obsolescence.
the twentieth century, the kepi for the prefectural and the colonial. The large state services are given a kepi (prison services, police) or the cap that has become more widely imposed since the 1980s. The ecclesiastical clothing with a square cap from the seventeenth century, leaves room to the beret when the cassock is replaced in the city by the ordinary costume. The secularization of the public assistance entails the regulation of the costumes of the personnel, whose wearing of the cap, replaced by the veil in 1917 and fallen since in obsolescence.
The protective headgear
The first civilian protective helmets were made of leather or copper (French firefighters) for police and firefighters. They were extended to sports activities (horse, cycling, motorcycle). They are now made of fiberglass, expanded polystyrene.
The hairstyles of St. Catherine
Yvonne de Sike, Head of the Europe Department at the Musée de l'Homme in Paris, comments on this custom20. "Catherine, daughter of notables of Alexandria at the beginning of the fourth century and converted to Christianity, refused any proposal of marriage [...]. Formerly, in the sewing workshops, on St. Catherine's day, girls who had reached the fateful age wore haggard hats. This practice gave rise to festivities and popular balls. It was, of course, an indirect way of bringing ritual into the "circuit" potential wives, those who might otherwise be excluded ".
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